1. WHY IS MY DRYER NOT DRYING?
Does your dryer feel hot, yet your clothes are still taking forever to dry? You might have a clog that’s preventing the air from circulating properly, not to mention posing a fire hazard. Check the following areas for blockage:
- Lint filter: A clogged lint filter or lint screen can block air flow, resulting in longer drying times and higher utility bills. Empty your lint filter after every cycle to prevent clogs and keep your machine running efficiently. Every few months, remove the lint filter and soak it in warm, soapy water to remove any residue left behind by dryer sheets or fabric softener.
- Lint trap: The chute that houses the lint filter can also get clogged. Clean the lint trap every few months using a dryer lint brush or a vacuum hose.
- Vent: Dryer vents can also get clogged with lint over time. Clean the vent at least once a year using a dryer vent brush or vacuum hose.
2. WHY IS MY DRYER SQUEAKING?
A noisy dryer could be caused by a foreign object bouncing around in the drum or a screw that’s come loose—or it could be a sign of a worn-out part that needs replacing. Read our guide to fixing a squeaking dryer and get to the root of your appliance’s irritating squeak.
3. WHY IS MY DRYER NOT GETTING HOT?
A dryer that’s not quite as hot as it used to be and taking slightly longer to dry can often be remedied with routine maintenance. However, a dryer that’s not heating at all can bring your entire laundry routine to an abrupt halt. Let’s identify the common culprits of a cold dryer to determine if a repair or a new part is in order:
- Heating element: If your dryer does everything but heat up, there's a good chance that its heating element is the number one suspect. Unfortunately, the heating element cannot be repaired, but it can be replaced. Refer to your model's manual to find out how—or save yourself the strain by calling in your local GE Appliances Factory Service experts.
- Thermostat: Dryers have multiple thermostats to monitor internal temperature. When one or more of these thermostats start to malfunction, the heating element may never receive the signal to heat up. And you know what that means: cold, damp laundry. Thermostats can be tested, repaired, or replaced, but it takes some electrical expertise to get the job done right.
- Timer motor: This little device does a big job, regulating how and when power is sent to each component. When the timing is out, you may find that the heating element does not heat up at the same time the drum is spinning. That means warm-yet-still-damp laundry. Fortunately, the motor itself can usually be replaced without having to replace the entire motor assembly.
- Incorrect voltage: Sometimes, a dryer that’s not heating up might not be receiving the proper voltage. Check your home’s main circuit breaker panel to ensure all of the circuit breakers are in the correct positions. If you have a fuse box, inspect the fuse panel to ensure no fuses are blown. Reset any circuit breakers or replace any blown fuses as needed.
4. WHY WON’T MY DRYER START?
If your dryer won’t turn on and you’ve already checked your circuit breaker or fuse box for a trip, it’s time to troubleshoot other areas:
- Drive motor: If you find that your dryer gets very hot before shutting off—and you have to leave it for a while before it will restart—you may have a drive motor that's either covered in lint or otherwise more seriously damaged. In this case, the dryer is shutting down to prevent overheating. The drive motor can either be cleaned or replaced as necessary.
- Clogged vent: If hot air is not venting properly, your dryer will overheat and shut down. A clogged or kinked vent line is relatively easy to remedy, but a replacement part may be needed if damage has accrued over time.
- Thermal overload switch or fuse: If you're experiencing either of the two issues above, it's the thermal overload switch or fuse that shuts down the dryer to prevent further damage. However, this component itself can become damaged. If that's the case, it's vital to have this part inspected, repaired, or replaced by a trained professional.
- Moisture sensor: If your dryer has the ability to detect moisture and time its dry cycle accordingly, this part could be the culprit. If the sensor is defective or coated with fabric softener, the dryer may think wet clothes are dry and will shut off prematurely.
- Door switch: Your dryer will only start tumbling when the dryer door is fully closed and the door switch is activated. If the switch is damaged or defective, it won’t be able to sense when the door is closed and therefore won’t turn on. If the door switch is the culprit, be sure to replace it with a manufacturer-approved replacement part.
